Assembly!

I wanted to spend a couple of days at the school just observing and getting a sense of how things work, so that’s how I spent Monday and Tuesday of my first week. On Monday, Andrew and I went to the school assembly in the morning, were welcomed as honored guests, and said a few words of greeting in which I sputtered out some nonsense again. I’m not good at the whole honored guest thing. My goal is to become a normal human as soon as possible so that I can stop being treated like I’m some sort of royalty. Don’t get me wrong, it’s very nice and I appreciate how welcoming everyone is being, but I’m going to be here for two months. At some point, I need to stop being a guest or else everyone is going to get sick of me. I don’t want to feel like a burden!

Can we all agree that there’s nothing worse than on-the-spot public speaking? Or is it just me who feels that way?

We spent the morning going around to different classrooms and sitting in the back to observe. I tried to melt into the background so that the kids would stop staring at me like I’m some kind of alien and start paying attention in class, but I’m not a very good chameleon.

Learning Hindi with the 10th graders

After two mornings of this, I went to talk to the school coordinator to try to figure out how I can fit into the school. It’s very hard to get straight answers out of people here. I say, “what do you need help with?” and they say, “what do you want to help with?” NO! That’s not the point. I want to fill in existing holes, not create holes for myself to fill in. Does that make sense? I said, “is there anything that the kids aren’t learning that you think would be helpful?” She said, “you can teach them whatever you want.” AHHH!!

Kindergarten class learning about fruits

Finally, I squeezed out the information that one of the English teachers has been sick, and no one is teaching her classes. Also, one of the Science teachers has to leave at 11, and no one is teaching his afternoon classes. Perfect. This is exactly what I was looking for. I said that I could definitely take on both of those things, so that’s how I found myself assigned as the English Literature teacher for grades 9 and 10 and the Science teacher for grade 8. This is ideal because without me, they would be learning nothing, and I’m at least better than nothing. Low-pressure situation. I agreed to start teaching on Wednesday… so much for taking a full week to get my bearings! It was good though because then I had a sense of purpose and stopped feeling like such an imposition, taking and taking and giving nothing back. Anyway, she gave me the textbooks and just like that, I was officially a teacher. My qualifications: I’m from a different country and speak English.

View from the school roof. They have a nice covered part, and I asked what they use it for. Taking tests, apparently. Can you imagine taking a test with this as your view??

Oh yeah, another important thing to note. I’ll tell you more about the school later, but everything there is taught in English (besides the language classes of course. I think they take Bengali and Hindi). Since the students are from such diverse backgrounds and all speak different languages, English was chosen as the school’s official language. That’s good news for me because otherwise, I’d be worthless.

The pastor’s conference meeting

Monday and Tuesday were both very busy! Monday afternoon, there was a women’s prayer meeting with women from all of the churches in Jaigaon. Our church was hosting, so that was nice and convenient for me. I understood approximately zero things that were said, but it was still a cool meeting to be a part of. They prayed for India and for the community and probably some other things too. I prayed silently to myself until I started falling asleep from the warmth and having my eyes closed. Oops. Then I just sat there and willed myself to stay awake.

Random fun fact… my bed got eaten by termites!

Tuesday night was another meeting, but this one was a part of a pastor’s conference that was going on. They gave out certifications to the new pastors and then the conference speaker shared a message. The best part? The whole thing was in English because the pastors came from all over, so that’s the common language. The speaker was awesome. His name is Rev. Dr. Ivan Satyavrata, and I’d recommend looking him up if you’re interested! He talked about how our greatest challenge is accepting the call that God puts into our lives. We have to make a decision about who/what owns us. Is it money, comfort, etc or will you give Him your life? It was a good message for me, especially right now where my future is so up in the air! I left feeling so encouraged, both by his words and by the atmosphere created by the people there. The Holy Spirit was definitely filling that room.

Okay so this is what I was trying to explain about the hospitality here. They asked me what fruits I like. I said apples and grapes. The next day, this was delivered to my room. Keep in mind that they are also feeding me at meal times… it’s not like they’re starving me and I need food in my room to survive.

The more time I spend here and get to know this community, the more excited I become for the rest of my time in India. I have so much to learn from the people here, especially Pastor Daniel and Ruth. They have an amazing story and amazing faith. This is going to be a good environment for me to keep growing in my faith and in my confidence in general! I can already tell that I’ve made a lot of progress since the beginning of my journey, simply based on the fact that the thought of teaching on my own doesn’t throw me into a total panic anymore. And if they keep putting me on the spot unexpectedly, maybe I’ll even learn to quickly form coherent thoughts instead of just babbling.

Due to my impeccable subconscious planning skills, my first Sunday in India was Palm Sunday! When I picked the dates, I didn’t even think about when Easter was going to fall this year, but I couldn’t have planned it better if I’d tried. How cool to get to spend the most important Christian holiday with believers in another country! It’s going to be fun to see how things are done here and what is different from and the same as the way we do them at home. The differences that you notice right away are that everyone leaves their shoes outside (YESSS! Hooray for more socially acceptable barefoot time!) and the men sit on one side and the women sit on the other. Most importantly though, don’t worry, we still had palm branches to wave around here.

Palm Sunday!

The general format of the service is the same as at home. Here it’s two hours, but at least two hours means two actual hours and not “who knows, maybe four” like in Ghana. Big difference: languages. Since this is such a diverse place, people speak a bunch of different languages. The service is advertised as being in Hindi and Nepali. I’ll be honest – I can’t tell the difference yet, so I couldn’t tell you what parts were in what language.

A couple other differences are that 1.) everyone leaves their shoes outside (YESSS! Hooray for more socially acceptable barefoot time) 2.) the men sit on one side and the women sit on the other

We started out singing, and I’m pretty sure we covered both languages, plus English in the songs. Thankfully, they have a projector and lyrics written in the Hindi/Nepali alphabet (same alphabet, different languages) AND the Latin alphabet, so even when they’re singing a song in a language I don’t speak, I can at least stumble through an attempt to sing along.

 

This doesn’t properly convey how much of a goober I sounded like.

They called Andrew and me up to the front so we could be honored as guests and so that I could give a greeting… which consisted of me having no idea what to say and eventually spitting out who knows what. Pastor Daniel also told everyone that I’m Nepali, and most people definitely didn’t realize that it was a joke because they were coming up and speaking Nepali to me after the service. Eek!

 

 

Lots of little baby palm crosses

Andrew delivered the message for the day, so at least I could understand that. I have a feeling that most of the time, I’m going to be back in the situation of having no idea what’s going on. I don’t think I fully appreciated how nice it was to know some Spanish in Peru. At least I could sort of follow what was happening. Here, the only words I know are hello and thank you which really limits my comprehension.

 

After church, we had tea and crackers, and I awed the masses (gross exaggeration… I awed maybe three people) with my palm branch cross folding skills. I was super excited because I had a bonding moment with my littlest sister, Anika, as I tried (semi-successfully) to teach her how to do it.

We went on an adventure during the afternoon and stopped at a market in a nearby town. It was similar to markets I’ve been in before, but mostly people had their things spread out on tarps on the ground, and there were tarps strung up overhead to give some escape from the sun. One new thing for me was that everyone who was selling food had scales and weights to determine how much to charge. It was amazing to see it all in action. I love watching people do things with well-practiced hands. It doesn’t matter what it is, but there’s something beautiful about people moving with complete confidence.

I almost bought a machete because you never know when it might come in handy, right?
Waaay to the east

Taj Mahal Day was our last day of sightseeing and then we were off to my home for the next 7 weeks, Jaigaon (jay-gahn). Jaigaon is a city in the eastern part of India, probably so far east that you didn’t even realize it’s still in India. It’s right on the border with Bhutan and is very close to a bunch of other countries, so even though it’s not a huge city, it has a lot of diversity.

Our journey from Delhi to Jaigaon consisted of a one hour car ride from our hotel to the airport, a two hour flight from Delhi to Bagdogra, and a 4ish hour car ride from Bagdogra to Jaigaon. I was a little nervous because why wouldn’t I be? I was going to meet my temporary family and see my new home, and I had no idea what to expect. The moment I stepped out of the car, I was put at ease. Pastor Daniel gave a belly laugh and said, “ha! She could be Indian!” He later amended his statement and said that I could definitely be Nepali. If it means I’m going to be able to blend in, then I’m happy for it. Sticking out everywhere you go gets old VERY quickly. It’s even worth the awkwardness of constantly having to tell people that you only speak English when they start talking to you in a different language, assuming you speak it.

Windy road
We drove over this bridge on the way
Tea farm
This is a river in the rainy season, but right now it just looks like a river of rocks

They showed us to our rooms, and if I still had any doubts about if I would be okay here, they were gone when I saw my room and waaay gone after dinner. I’m feel like I’m living in a palace. I have my own room. I have TWO beds, my own bathroom with running water and a water heater, a mini-fridge, my own wifi router, a TV, an air conditioning unit. And then they told me that if I need anything else, they’ll do what they can to get it for me… what more could I possibly need? Even this is way above and beyond my needs. There’s also a great view from the roof, plus there’s a swing set up there. Yes, a swing set ON THE ROOF.

Roof views! See that mountain? That’s in Bhutan
View #2
View #3

We had a little time to get organized before dinner because dinnertime here is usually around 8PM aka bedtime. If that’s the thing about being here that gives me the most trouble though, I’m doing pretty well.

The hospitality culture here is overwhelming. They made so much food for us for dinner, and we weren’t allowed to do anything to help. I definitely felt welcomed! I was glad that Andrew was there too because if all of that was just for me, I would have been even more overwhelmed. Hopefully I can convince them to let me help out with things in the future. Two months is a long time to take someone in, and I don’t want to be a burden.

I’m feeling good about this though. I can see myself getting to the point where I feel comfortable here. I have my adoptive parents, Pastor Daniel and Ruth, and my adoptive brother and sisters, Jayesh, Myra, Prisha, and Anika. Jayesh is 14, and the girls are 12, 9, and 6. My first time having younger siblings!

Tomorrow we’re going to drive around to see the bible school that Pastor Daniel started and some of the city so that I can get my bearings.

In my planning for this year, I promise I didn’t even think about trying to cross a few of the seven wonders of the world off my bucket list. Alas, somehow I found myself visiting two of them in the span of two weeks. After that, how do I even begin to be impressed by anything else in the world? Just kidding, that’s a problem I’ve never had. It doesn’t take much to get me excited.

When I see something like Machu Picchu or the Taj Mahal, I just reach a whole new level. My thoughts usually go something like this, “OH MY GOSH. THIS IS SO COOL. THIS IS SO COOL. DID YOU SEE THAT??! WHAT ABOUT THAT?! AH LOOK OVER THERE TOO! THIS IS SO COOL. THIS IS SO COOL. THE COOLEST. SO COOL. I CAN’T BELIEVE I’M HERE. AHHH. AHHHH!!! SO COOL!!!!!!” Yes, in all caps. I promise it isn’t quite as annoying in my head as it is to read.

On our way there, we stopped at the McDonald’s in this mall to get some lunch. The rest of the mall was like the eerie set of a zombie apocalypse movie.

I’m getting ahead of myself though, as I often do when I’m excited. As you might have guessed, sightseeing day #3 was Taj Mahal Day. Aka Lara-loses-her-mind-with-excitement day. We left a little earlier than usual because it’s about a 3-hour ride to Agra, where the Taj Mahal is located, from Delhi. There are a few different ways you can get there, like tourist buses or the train, but we decided to hire a cab for the day. It was around $100, and it made the whole experience way low-stress. The driver picked us up, we stopped for lunch when we were hungry, he dropped us off right in front of our destinations, he kept the car nice and air-conditioned, and we got to go wherever we wanted, whenever we wanted, without having to worry about a group or schedule or finding our way.

Here’s where Agra is in relation to Delhi. You can see Delhi up to the north.
Formerly a moat that contained more than just air and dust

Our first stop after reaching Agra wasn’t the Taj Mahal, rather, it was Agra Fort (also called the Red fort of Agra). Like the Red Fort in Delhi, it’s mostly built from red sandstone. It has a long history, but it was built into its current form by the Mughal rulers after it was ruined in battle. The construction was started by Emperor Akbar in the mid-1500s, and Emperor Shah Jahan (our buddy who built the Red Fort and Jama Masjid in Delhi, plus most famously, the Taj Mahal) replaced some of the sandstone buildings with white marble ones during his reign. The fort is linked to the Taj Mahal because of some complicated Mughal politics that resulted in one of Shah Jahan’s sons putting him under house arrest in the fort where he could gaze upon his great monument from a distance.

The Amar Singh Gate to enter the fort. Supposedly the second most beautiful entrance (imagine what the other one must be like to make this only second best!), but this is the only one that tourists can use.

The fort is another monstrosity. The walls stretch for around 1.5 miles and contain about 95 acres. At its height, there were over 500 buildings inside, many of which were destroyed by the British. Luckily, some of the awesome buildings of Shah Jahan are among the 27 that survived. With so many buildings, you might think that the architecture would be more simple… and of course, you’d be wrong. Based on their architecture, I’m not sure that the Mughals even knew the definition of simple. There’s intricate detailing everywhere, and I can’t even imagine what it looked like at its height. And then of course, in the distance, through the smog, I got my first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. Initial reaction: it looks small. Well duh… from there it’s about a mile and a half away. There’s a trick where, if you’re looking at it through a window, it looks like it’s getting bigger as you walk away because it fills up more and more of the window. While you’re doing it, you know in your head that it’s the same size, but still your eyes are fooled.

Little Taj Mahal…
Big Taj Mahal!

The balcony where Shah Jahan spent his last years. It’s kind of hard to feel bad for the guy with a jail cell like this.
Just a little preview of the level of detailing Shah Jahan liked.

Another view of Shah Jahan’s balcony and the Taj Mahal in the distance *sigh* how poetic

You can only visit a tiny portion of the fort because much of it is still used for the military (casual military base in a UNESCO World Heritage Site), so by the time we were ready to melt into puddles from the sun and the heat, we were mostly finished walking through. Next stop: the Taj Mahal!!! (I would put more exclamation points because honestly, it deserves them, but I don’t want to be annoying.)

A distant view of the off-limits part of the fort

For those of you who aren’t up on your Taj Mahal facts, it’s a tomb. That’s crazy, right? All of that grandeur for a couple of bodies. Actually though, it was just intended to be used for one body, and besides being a tomb, it was a monument to love.

Shah Jahan built it for his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. It is said that he fell in love with her at first sight, and from the time when he declared that he wished to marry her, it took 5 years to actually happen. By then, he had two other wives for political reasons, but she was his one love and the others were wives in title alone. She accompanied him everywhere, including on military campaigns, and he gave her the title “Mumtaz Mahal” which means “Chosen One of the Palace”. She died at 38 years old while giving birth to their 14th child. On her death bed, she asked him to never marry again (though he had married others while she was alive) and for a monument to their love. He agreed to both. After her death, he was filled with grief and went into secluded mourning for a full year.

There are rumors that the original intent was to have two Taj Mahal-like structures, one on each side of the river, one in white for Mumtaz Mahal, and one in black for Shah Jahan. These rumors have mostly been disproved, but it’s fun to think about anyway. Just imagine if they were true and the “Black Taj” had really been built! One Taj Mahal is already a lot to take in. Today, Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal are buried next to each other in the Taj Mahal.

You think this is cool, and it totally is… but then you walk through, see the Taj Mahal, and immediately forget about it.

Construction was completed in 1648 after 22 years. It involved the best of the best, both in reference to materials and craftsmen. There were 37 master craftsmen with skills from calligraphy and inlaying to turret building and carving marble flowers, plus 20,000 other workers. The marble is from Rajasthan, a neighboring Indian state, and the 28 types of precious and semi-precious stones used in the decoration came from all over Asia, from China to Afghanistan. Everything is symmetrical except for in the central chamber where Shah Jahan’s tomb was placed next to the centered tomb of his wife. The bodies are actually located in a room beneath the main chamber and are marked with simple tombs to obey Muslim laws against elaborately decorated graves.

First glimpse. This picture could have been better but I was too busy trying to get closer

When you get your first glimpse of the Taj Mahal through the entryway, it doesn’t matter that you’ve seen a million pictures and know exactly what it’s going to look like. It’s still breathtaking. It still stops you in your tracks and makes your jaw drop. It still gives you those chills that you get when you’re looking at something so beautiful and so impossible to comprehend. It doesn’t even matter that there are a thousand other people there, all trying to get the perfect picture. It’s magnificent.

It would take an eternity of close study to do fully appreciate the artistry that went into every single feature of the building. The details are insane. Attention was paid to every surface, and it’s not overdone or gaudy. It’s elegant. It’s not one of those situations where something looks great from afar, but up close it’s not impressive. No, from up close, it’s even more impressive.

I could write on and on, trying to convey the splendor, but my words can’t do it justice. Not even close. Pictures aren’t enough either, but they’ll have to do. I wish I had pictures of the central chamber because that’s where the detailing reaches a whole new level, but you technically aren’t allowed to take pictures inside, and I’m not good at breaking rules.

Eek!! Commence geek out
Full disclosure: this is probably the 15th picture I made Andrew and Rohan take because it had to be perfect and people kept getting in the background and my head looked smushed in some.
You get to (have to) wear these fun booties aka elf shoes when walking on the marble.
Fun fact about the towers: they are all leaning slightly away from the mausoleum so that if they ever fall over for any reason, they’ll fall away from the tombs and won’t cause more damage on the way down.

Courtesy of that marble flower carving expert

I know, I know… super tourist picture but it made me laugh so that’s all that matters. I know I said I’m a rule-follower, but these are like joke rules.

After spending a good amount of time just sitting and soaking in the awesomeness, we left. I felt a little empty inside as we walked away, but luckily it wasn’t my last glimpse. We headed across the river to the garden that sits opposite the Taj which is the speculated planned location of the Black Taj. There are foundations that make it seem like it could be true, but those are said to be just the remnants of some garden features. Like I said before, true or not, it’s fun to imagine.

Me squishing a tourist
The “Black Taj” mystery foundations
We saw a camel! He was just chillin’ outside of the garden

You can also get a great, tourist-free view of the actual Taj Mahal. We spent a little more time there, scoping out the best photo spot and dawdling so we didn’t have to say goodbye just yet, but eventually it couldn’t be pushed off any longer. We took our last looks, I tried to permanently etch it into my memory, and we headed back to the car for the long drive home.

Candid… I know it looks a little posed, but really, it’s not. I can’t tell you how long we spent just staring.

Our second day of exploring Delhi was… interesting. We unintentionally visited all of, what I have deemed, the most baffling places in the city. Our first stop was Akshardham temple. Andrew and Rohan had never been before, so it was a strange, new experience for all of us. There’s no entry fee, but they make up for that in over-the-top security measures and the fact that you can’t take pictures. I’ve never been through security like this.

First, you go through a guardhouse where they looked through your bag. Next, you come to a building where you have to hand in certain items. This is where it started getting funny. I tried to just give them my whole little purse minus my wallet because you have to hand in your phone, so what else do I even have in there? They rejected my purse but then told me to remove “all electronics”. Uhh. Okay? So I gave them the little external battery pack I had too, and I had to give them the cord, as if I could do anything with that after giving up my phone and the battery pack. Then I had to give him my headphones, and finally he asked for my hand sanitizer. What the heck am I going to do with either of those? But whatever. At this point, my purse was practically empty anyway, so I’m not really sure why they wouldn’t just take it.

The first and only picture I took before my phone was locked up.

The next step was security. You always get split into men and women here, so I went in the women’s line and walked through a questionably functional metal detector, had everything taken out of my bag again (though apparently the granola bar I had was no problem), and got the world’s least thorough pat down which did, however, include the woman asking me if the bump she felt from my pants drawstring was a phone. Likely. And finally, we were in.

None of us had done any real research on the place, so we just assumed that it was some old temple. I quickly started questioning that once we got into the complex. Everything looked too sharp. The carvings were crisp and perfect, and it didn’t feel old. When we entered the actual temple (shoe-less, of course), there was lighting integrated into the shrines, and it didn’t look like it was added in after construction. Suspicious. Rohan went and asked an employee when it was built… 2005. Hahahahahaha I literally burst out laughing. Here we are, thinking it’s some sacred piece of history, and it’s barely more than 10 years old. We kept joking and laughing about it throughout the day. That also explained why everything looked so fresh. Some of the carving was done by machines (so it amazingly only took 5 years to complete!), though the detail work was done by hand, and there hasn’t been nearly enough time for it to start showing any wear and tear.

The building is beautiful, and I’m glad we went, but how funny is that? It’s supposed to celebrate and showcase India’s architectural history, so I guess I have to say, “good job,” to the designers. You fooled us!

Inside the temple, we also learned about Swaminarayan, an important figure in modern Hinduism. His followers believe that he was a physical manifestation of God. He did a lot of good things for women in India, including advocating for women’s education, discouraging the killing of female babies, and speaking against the ill-treatment of women. The temple is dedicated to him and contains an exhibit that includes impressions of his feet, and… wait for it… actual hair and nail clippings! Yeah, that’s too much for me I think. Can you imagine being such a big deal that someone would want your nail clippings?

There was also a lot of large artwork of Gandhi’s head. One of the other ones had little screens in his eyes. That was weird.

Okay wow I managed to say a lot more about the temple that I expected. The next stop after that was Gandhi Smriti, the place where Gandhi was assassinated. There is now a Gandhi museum on the site as well, and that’s near the top of the list of the weirdest museums I’ve ever been to. It has a “multimedia exhibit” with LOTS of multimedia elements and no explanations of anything. There’s nothing saying what anything is, how it works, or why it’s significant. There was a woman following us around and pointing us in the direction of the next room throughout our visit, so I guess she was our unofficial guide. The whole thing was just baffling. There was one room with all of these little wooden boxes on the walls, and one wall of boxes contained little screens that were playing footage from one of Gandhi’s marches. Why the boxes? I felt like I was in some weird alternate reality.

 

The mysterious boxes
I have literally no idea what the purpose of this is. It’s like a kaleidoscope kind of… you look in one end, there’s a screen at the opposite end, and the space in between is filled with mirrors.

The multimedia exhibit was strange, but there was also a helpful and informative exhibit of dioramas that gave a good timeline of Gandhi’s life. Filled with new Gandhi knowledge, we walked around the gardens and saw the spot where he was shot during an evening prayer ceremony. It’s an eerie juxtaposition of a horrible history and a peaceful garden.

 

I’m standing on a bridge over dry land. Very functional, right? But this is a nice view of the garden.

The spot.
Here’s the location of Delhi, for reference.

We hit the ground running on my first day in Delhi. We have three sightseeing days scheduled before flying to my final destination, so I wanted to see as much as possible. I wasn’t worried about having any jetlag because I landed at night, and if there’s one thing I can always do to get onto the right time schedule, it’s sleep. I had no trouble going to bed after getting to our hotel, and when I woke up in the morning, I was ready to go.

India gate

My friends for the first few sightseeing days in Delhi are Andrew, the guy who helped to organize my trip here, and Rohan, a Delhi-ite who is a friend of a friend. Andrew had an ambitious list of places to visit on day one, and we managed to get through them all! I’m all about efficient sightseeing. I can’t even count the number of tuk-tuks we took (took… lol get it? I know, I’m too funny) today, but they made it possible for us to quickly zip around the city.

The first stop was India Gate, a war memorial triumphal arch. It’s located on the same stretch of road as the President’s house and other government buildings like Parliament and some department headquarters. Most of these buildings were designed by the same British architect, and the others were designed by one other British architect. It’s not hard to tell that they weren’t Indian designs. They look like someone picked them out of a catalog for British architecture and plopped them down in India instead of the UK.

 

This is as close as you can get to the President’s house without being special. Maybe you can make an appointment or something, but this was as close as we could get.
One of the buildings that houses some government departments
Parliament

From there, we made our way to the Red Fort, the former home of many of the Mughal emperors. That’s who was in power before the European power struggle that resulted in the colonization of India by the British. The fort was built in 1639 by Emperor Shah Jahan, the same guy who was responsible for the Taj Mahal. The outer wall encloses over 250 acres with 1.5 miles of wall. That’s crazy. We didn’t go inside, but I think a lot of the interior was plundered and destroyed throughout history anyway.

A view from the steps of the Jama Masjid

A short walk from the Red Fort gets you to the Jama Masjid, one of the biggest mosques in India. If you’re Indian, you can get in for free. If you’re not, you have to pay the “tourist tax” (as in, EVERYTHING is more expensive here if you’re not Indian). You also have to take off your shoes to enter, and this is where I fell in love with barefoot culture. It feels so weird! Even when you “enter” you’re still outside, just in a courtyard. And you’re walking around barefoot. And so is everyone else. How weird, right? But here, it’s completely normal, and I intend to fully embrace it.

Anyway, this mosque was also built by Shah Jahan in the mid-1600s. Busy guy. The courtyard is huge, and they say that 25,000 people can pray in it at the same time. The architecture is absolutely beautiful. Shah Jahan was clearly not the kind of guy who was okay with second best.

Jama Masjid!

Kulfi (ice cream)

At this point, it was about 1PM and things were starting to heat up. We decided to head to Connaught Place, a shopping area, to find some lunch and hide from the sun. I’ll give you one guess as to who built Connaught Place… most British name ever. We went to a place with Mughal cuisine for lunch, and apparently that means spicy. I mean, I expected it, but that doesn’t change the fact that I’m pathetic and can’t handle it. We got a bunch of things whose names mean nothing to me: mutton korma (lamb in some spicy sauce), chicken biryani (like fried rice but spicy), and khameeri naan (bread and my mouth’s lifesaver). I think my nose was running for all of lunch, and I ate like half the bread at the end trying to get the spicy taste out of my mouth. We got some kulfi (ice cream on a stick, but with indescribable taste and texture) to cool us down and also because who needs a reason for ice cream?

We only had a couple more stops to make after lunch. Number one was Humayun’s Tomb. This is another tourist taxed location… it’s something like 50 cents for an Indian to enter and 5 dollars for a foreigner. The complex has more than just Mughal Emperor Humayun’s tomb, though that building is definitely the highlight. There are some other monuments on the grounds, plus the 1547 tomb of Isa Khan, a noble who fought against the Mughals. Humayun’s tomb was built in 1572 by the Emperor’s wife, and now in addition to him, she and some other significant Mughals are buried there as well.

Isa Khan’s tomb

The tomb is spectacular. It came before the Taj Mahal, and it’s obvious that the Taj was built after looking at it. They have a lot of architectural similarities, though material-wise, they’re quite different. Humayun’s tomb is built from red sandstone. It’s undergone a lot of restoration work recently, so the building looks quite good actually. They also had an exhibit talking about the restoration work which was cool. I’m fascinated by that stuff. Fun fact – the finial on top is gilded in actual gold.

Some of the stonework at Isa Khan’s
More Isa Khan

Humayun’s tomb. Epic, right?
Ceiling details

Lotus temple

Okay, don’t worry, we’re almost finished. Now, the last stop of the day! We went to Lotus Temple, a Bahai temple. The Bahai faith is one that I had never heard of before, and honestly it seems more like a nice worldview rather than a religion. It started around 1844 and talks about the “oneness” of the human race, unity of people, condemnation of prejudice, gender equality, shrinking the wealth gap, the value of hard work, and the establishment of peace.

See that guy on top of the right petal? How would you like to be up there?

This definitely looks like a fake picture

All that aside, the building is awesome. It’s made to look like a lotus flower, and each “petal” is covered in marble. I have no idea how they built the thing, but it’s beautiful, and from the inside is just mind-blowing. Anyone can enter for free, but you have to take your shoes off, can’t talk, and can’t take pictures inside because it’s a place of worship. You can stay as long as you’d like and pray though, regardless of your religion. The whole concept is very interesting.

Dinner

While I was sitting and attempting to pray, I’m pretty sure that I was falling asleep in my seat. The day took quite a toll on me, but I was happy that we had a chance to see so many things. We stopped and grabbed some dinner – spicy (of course) lamb shawarma – before heading back to the hotel and crashing.

*Between the chaos of travel and the ever-unreliable internet situation, I’ve fallen a bit behind on posts. I have most of them written, but I haven’t had the internet to support actually organizing the pictures and uploading them. I’m finally in a stable wifi environment, so I’ll be uploading the rest of the Peru ones and catching you up on my time in India so far over the next few days. I’ve back-dated the Peru posts and will date the India ones for around the days when I wrote them, so they’ll be in chronological order on my feed.*

Welcome to India!!! Whew! It’s been a whirlwind couple of weeks. When I first landed here, my brain was not ready to register being in a new country yet. I’m still getting used to remembering where I am. How weird is that? This is definitely not a problem I would have expected to ever have. Who the heck loses track of what country they’re in? How much do you have to travel for that to happen? Well, I guess that three countries in four days is my limit.

I landed in Delhi around 9PM last night and zombie-walked my way through immigration and customs. Thankfully it all went without a hitch because I don’t think I had the capacity to deal with any issues after 24ish hours of travelling. I connected no problem with my ride, and we headed off to the hotel to crash for the night before a big day of sightseeing today!

After a day of being here, here’s a list of my first impressions (these are all based on observations in Delhi, so things may very well be different in other parts of the country):

Traffic-related things:

Traffic view. This definitely isn’t the worst case but I was on a bridge, so I had to just take what I could get at the moment.

People are always talking about the traffic here and how crazy it is, so I was expecting something insane. Yes, it’s definitely hectic, but I’ve had experiences in Peru and China that are pretty darn close. There are some distinguishing factors here though.

  1. Driving on the left – I think I knew this at some point, but I COMPELTELY forgot that they drive on the left here. When I got picked up from the airport, I had a momentary head spin when I got in the car and the driver was on the wrong side.
  2. Honking horns – Everyone uses their horn as if everyone else in the world is blind, and the only way that they’ll know you’re coming is if you’re honking. You honk if you’re passing someone, if someone is crossing the street and you’re going to hit them, if someone even looks like they might be thinking about crossing the street, if an animal looks like it might be in your way, if you’re in completely stopped traffic and you need to make yourself feel better about not going anywhere, etc. You name an opportunity, and someone is probably honking.
  3. Vehicle variety/quantity – The biggest thing that makes it more chaotic than other countries I’ve been to is that there are WAY more motorcycles and tuk-tuks (these are the same as motos in Peru – like a motorcycle rickshaw, or a motorcycle tricycle as I like to think of them) on the road. They weave in and out of the cars and drive kind of like nutcases. There are also bike rickshaws, normal bikes, other motorbike-related vehicles that I’ve never seen before, trucks, buses, and more. I’ve never seen such vehicle variety.

    Not a great picture, but you can see a woman riding sidesaddle on the front motorcycle.
  4. Motorcycle sidesaddle – This might be one of the most impressive things I’ve ever seen. Sometimes, women (especially when wearing a skirt) will ride on the back of motorcycles with both legs on one side, like riding a horse sidesaddle. To me, this is an incredible feat. How do they stay on? Is that not terrifying?
  5. Crossing the street – This is most similar to my experiences in China. When you cross the street, you need to be aggressive, but not TOO aggressive. It’s like a dance where if you step wrong, instead of getting some stubbed toes, you get hit by a car (or tuk-tuk or motorcycle or who knows what else). Sounds fun, right? The best strategy is to hide behind someone else while you’re crossing so that if anything goes wrong, they get hit instead of you.

General Environment

  1. Smog – This is another one that I knew about but forgot. If you haven’t been to a smoggy country before, just imagine that every day is a little foggy, but that fog is slowly killing you. The difference in your breathing and how the air feels between smoggy countries and ones with clean air are VERY easy to perceive. Thank goodness for emissions regulations in the US!
  2. Trash – Like Ghana, there’s a lot of trash everywhere. If you think US cities are dirty, come here. It’s gross.
  3. Water bottles – When you finish a water bottle, you’re supposed to crumple up the bottle before you throw it away (it even says so on the label). This is so that people can’t trash-pick the bottle, refill it with un-filtered water, “reseal” it, and sell it to an unsuspecting victim.
  4. Water – Speaking of water, as a foreigner, you pretty much have to drink bottled water (unless you want to spend a lot of time and effort purifying the tap water). Besides possibly containing bacteria that can give you anything from cholera to typhoid, some of the water has heavy metals including arsenic. You know, arsenic… aka poison. Everyone, please take a moment to take a deep breath, drink some tap water, and appreciate your clean water and air. Don’t take these things for granted!

    Dirt or tan lines? Hint: it’s dirt. All dirt.
  5. Dirt – Do we have less dirt in the US than in other countries? I don’t know, but I never feel so grimy at home. Here, plus in Ghana and somewhat Peru, I constantly feel like I’m covered with a layer of grime. It’s like there’s dirt seeping out of my pores. It’s impossible to keep anything clean.

Random

  1. Architecture – There is some REALLY cool stuff here. I’ll post more about what we saw today later, but just know that it’s pretty awesome. There are so many different styles happening here because of all of the different rulers and influences that have come in over India’s history, and it’s interesting to see them all interact. Tomb architecture is quickly becoming my favorite.
  2. Barefoot culture – If you like going barefoot, this might be the place for you. We went into a couple temples today, and when you go inside, you have to take your shoes off. It feels very weird taking off your shoes and walking around in public but at the same time, very liberating. I <3 barefoot temples.

Okay, that’s all for now. So far, I’m enjoying being here. More details to come soon, I promise!

Where in the world is Lara now? Ha. Good question! These last few days have been crazy. One second I’m in Cusco, then I’m in Lima, then Miami, then Toronto, and now I’m somewhere over the north pole on my way to India. My brain hasn’t even had a chance to process the fact that I shouldn’t be speaking Spanish to people anymore.

In hindsight I’m pretty sure I’ve worn the same outfit on every plane ride so far. I promise that 1. These are all different pictures and 2. I do own and wear other clothes.

I knew that this was going to be a rough adjustment, but it’s different now that I’m living it. It’s going to be interesting to see how I adapt to a completely new culture this time. And what will it be like in June when I’m back in the States for a more significant amount of time? Well, I can’t worry about that now. For the moment, my concern needs to be getting myself to comprehend the fact that I’m going to be in INDIA.
I’m seriously so excited. My biggest concern is still the food, and the airplane food we’ve been eating hasn’t done anything to settle that concern. I’m not a spicy kind of person. I love bland. Give me a plain piece of white bread, and I’m set. Out of a million potato chip flavors, I would choose original. I am a fan of salad with no dressing. I think that’s going to be an issue here. Already on this plane ride, I’ve started developing a technique for eating without actually touching any of the food with my tongue. My taste buds cannot handle spicy, and if that meal was the airline’s version of a toned-down spicy level that should be acceptable to everyone on board, I’m toast. And not white bread toast. (Probably some sort of whole grain toast with seeds and other crunchy things in it.)

Our route over the top of the world.

Anyway, there’s no turning back now. My head is still spinning from all of the things that were accomplished in the last two days. I landed Friday morning, my mom and I went shopping for some last-minute India supplies, I ate a couple of dinners with my sister and nieces, repacked my bag, and here I am! Be impressed because it really was an incredible feat.
Okay. It’s like 7 more hours until we land in Delhi. 7 hours to realize that I’m not in South America anymore. 7 hours to kill off 90% of my taste buds so that I can handle spicy food. India, here I come!

(Also, I’m going to retroactively post about my last days in Peru over the next couple days… so sorry for the post explosion. I had a very productive plane ride… But not now because it’s sleep time.)

Welcome to my blog! I am going to be documenting my yearlong adventure around the world, and I think it will be helpful to start off by catching you up on the who/what/where/when/why details of my trip.

Really, the first question that needs to be answered is why? Why am I doing this?

To put it simply, I feel like this is what I’m supposed to be doing right now. I love experiencing new cultures and seeing how beneath the obvious differences, people are so similar no matter where you are. That’s where the interest started, and the thinking/planning process since then has been about a year and a half long. For each decision, I prayed and researched and listened and waited until I had that feeling of inner peace that makes you sure that it was the right one. It was a long process, but I’m excited about how the plans developed and how once I was on the right track, all of the details fell into place!

Now for the who/what/where/when

I am doing four separate trips to four countries – Ghana, Peru, India, and Armenia. Below are the timeframes of when I’ll be in each, the organizations I’ll be working with and their descriptions of their missions/what they do, and links to their websites.

August – November 2016: Ghana – Volunteer Corps OrganisationVolCorpsLogo.jpg

“Volunteer Corps Organisation is dedicated to building a better world by improving the lives, living standards, education and health care of those from the most disadvantaged backgrounds. Through affordable volunteer placements in Ghana, Volunteer Corps Organisation offers a unique opportunity for cultural immersion whilst enabling volunteers to share their skills and knowledge with local communities in order to promote self-sufficiency.”

January – March 2017: Peru – Esperanza de Ana [Facebook page]

esperanzadeana.png“Esperanza de Ana provides services that bring guidance and emotional support to children and their families who are facing situations of conflict and personal trauma that put at risk the family unit and the functioning of the family.”

“Our passion is to strengthen families while offering a place of healing for the hearts and minds of each child and parent who has experienced trauma or is suffering crisis.  Through the education center we focus on the integral development of each child while we work to encourage parents to value each child and discover their gifts.”

April – May 2017: India – Harvest Bridge

harvestbridge.PNG“Harvest Bridge is a network of trusted indigenous churches and missionaries, cooperating on church planting, pastor education, poverty alleviation, disaster relief, and various other missionary and humanitarian programs.

We were founded and continue to grow with few worldly resources. The secret to our success is working through local churches and ministries in the countries where we serve. This leverages the passion, experience, and knowledge of local Christians and reduces the duplication of effort and resources.”

July – September/October 2017: Armenia – Birthright Armeniabirthright.jpg

“Birthright Armenia was founded … with the belief that it is every Armenian’s birthright to not only see Armenia, but also experience their homeland via an enriching, hands-on, life-changing experience.”

“Our mission is to strengthen ties between the homeland and Diasporan youth, by affording them an opportunity to be a part of Armenia’s daily life and to contribute to Armenia’s development through work, study and volunteer experiences, while developing life-long personal ties and a renewed sense of Armenian identity.”

There is just one more what to be answered, and that is what do I hope to accomplish with this trip?

I know that there’s only so much of a difference I can make with such short trips to each place. Real, sustainable change requires a much bigger investment of time and talents. Knowing that, my goal on this trip isn’t to change the world. Maybe I’ll make a lasting impact on one or two people, but even that isn’t a guarantee.

The only thing I can know for certain is that I will be changed, and I’m going to spend every day experiencing and absorbing as much as possible. I want to learn everything I can from the people and organizations I encounter. I want to live outside my comfort zone and eat at least one bug. JUST KIDDING I’m absolutely NOT eating any bugs. But I will eat new foods and say yes to things that scare me and maybe even get malaria. Most of all, I want to learn to trust in God and go enthusiastically towards the future He has planned for me, even without knowing all of the details.

Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways submit to him, and he will make your paths straight. – Proverbs 3:5-6

Well, that should about cover it! Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions.

Ready… set… time to go pack!